The goal here at Horns is always to maximize our drinking pleasure. Otherwise, vodka costs less and gets you there faster. To that end, I’ve written about a few general principles of good wine drinking: High bar, low fences and going wide before you go deep. Give those a read if you haven’t yet.
But today I want to place a third principle alongside those two - a pursuit that beguiles and bewitches, a craft that takes a lifetime to master, a seductive but fickle mistress - the art of situational drinking.
Drinking good wine is always enjoyable but there’s a deeper pleasure in drinking not just a good wine, but the wine that perfectly matches the occasion. Pinot Grigio is lovely but if you’re having a long conversation by the fire on a cold winter night, even the best PG will feel out of place. Likewise, most of America’s obsession with full bodied, high alcohol Cali Cabs is especially egregious in the summer when crisp and refreshing wines shine. Even King Solomon, who had very few good things to say about wine drinking, agreed on this, “There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens.”
Now for the tricky bit. How does one know what wines to drink when? Unfortunately, there’s no silver bullet answer but I do have a few easy places to start.
A Ripper or a Sipper?
The first question I ask myself when pairing wines is do I need a ripper or sipper? Rippers are younger, at least somewhat affordable, crowd pleasing wines that you wouldn’t mind passing around to a big group. Sippers are generally older, may require time to open up, and could be rare, expensive or just too good to drink casually. Rippers: Beaujolais, New Zealand Sauv Blanc, most Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch, Muscadet. Sippers: Bordeaux and other Big Cabs, Burgundy, Barolo, Grower Champagne, almost anything with more than 10 years of age.
My general rule is if there are 7 or more people, really special or rare bottles are staying at home. Unless you have magnums, it gets difficult to pour for that many people and sippers shine the brightest when the group is small enough to enjoy them together in one conversation. After all, most big groups just want to eat, drink and be merry without having to wait for a 30 minute decant or listen to a spiel about lees aging.
Even if the group is intimate, ask yourself if the vibe is right. Don’t make the wine the center of attention if it should be elsewhere. “Better” wine doesn’t always mean a better time. Unless it’s your anniversary or a major milestone, you might want to just let a few rippers rip.
Think seasonally
Most of us know what foods best match the season we’re in. Hot, hearty stews don’t work in July. Likewise, cold cuts or sushi might not be your first choice on a bitter February evening. Think of wine the same way. Wines with robust flavors, lots of structured tannins, high alcohol, or a full body will feel more at home when the weather’s cool and the table fare is hearty. Wines with less alcohol, more acid, and fresher flavors will shine best in the summer.
And you don’t have to know the exact alcohol/tannin/acid/body breakdown to get this right. Ask yourself, when I last drank this wine did it feel strong or delicate? Hot or smooth? Powerful or refreshing? Most of the time, that will tell you all you need to know. If you’re buying something for the first time, ask the staff (or me)!
Know how to zig and zag
Most wine courses and books teach you how to pair like with like. Steak and Cabernet. Oysters and Champagne. Red sauce pasta and Sangiovese. These are all delicious. Matching the wine to the food or occasion is almost always going to be a hit. But as in music, design and love, there are times when a contrast can be more delightful than a match.
Conventional wisdom would say that chocolate chip cookies would taste best with a sweet dessert wine like port, but I love to eat them with a fresh, acidic Chianti or Loire Cab Franc. Similarly, if I’m eating barbecue, I’d prefer a fresher and zippier red, like Listan Negro or Mencia, than the traditional “matches” like Shiraz or Zinfandel that can be just as smoky, fruity and powerful as the food. Learn the rules, then break them!
Don’t force it
As someone with a financial interest in you buying more wine, even I must admit that sometimes it’s just not on. For example, there are wines that you can pair with spicy or well seasoned cuisines like Thai, Indian or Mexican food, (riesling is the common answer here), but just because you can doesn’t always mean you should. A cold cheap beer from the same country of origin is a perfect partner for those foods and we don’t need to mess with perfection.
Similarly, there are plenty of drinking occasions where it’s best to make like a boat, and go with the tide. I cringe when I hear patrons ask dive bar or brewery staff what the house red is. And for god’s sake, if you’re in someone else’s home you can drink what they’re drinking, whether it’s Highlife, highballs, or drugstore Merlot. It won’t kill you.
A few favs
With all that in our minds, here’s a short list of some of my favorite pairings. Open up the notes app on your phone and start building your own!
Occasions
Spring weather on the patio - Riesling
Long talk with your partner - Cote-Rotie
Snow Day - Vendanges Tardive Pinot Gris from Alsace
Pool day - Vinho Verde
Weeknight get together - Burgenland Blaufrankisch
Food
Pizza - Chianti Classico
Apple Pie - Tokaji
Salmon and Trout - Tavel
Barbecue - Menci, Listan Negro
Mushroom dishes - Barbaresco, Burgundy
Wild game - French Syrah, Lagrein, Aglianico, Bandol
Sushi - Sparkling Vouvray